Hot & Sticky

25 May 2009

When we leave Joure Marrekrite at 09:10 it is already humid warm. Today a 30C is forecasted, with hardly any wind. The Tjeukemeer we cross very soon is flat like a mirror. Such can be quite different as we experienced a few years ago. It is recommended to stay within the buoys of the ships lane, which is not a favorite course when the southwest wind blows. But today no issue. We pass Echtenerbrug and are surprised about the amount of idle hiring boats moored all over. Must be the crisis.

Just before the Linthorst Homan sluis (the old lock is called "Three Way Lock", which indeed it is!) we encounter from opposite direction the Sonne-Claer of Teun & Els Peek, member of the Linssen Owners Group as well. Having some chat over the marineradio, they are heading up north the Wadden now, could not make it for the tour. At Ossenzijl bridge we need quite some patience. Wrong timing, as the bridge is closed for lunch hour and the waiting ships line up. Once opened a fleet wrings itself into the small and curving but beautiful waterway, which slows us down to the minimum, because overhauling is impossible here. But we have all time of the day.

This morning it was already forecasted temperature to drop down tomorrow by at least 10C. The change will be accompanied with thunderstorms. During the day warnings start, getting more severe by the hour. Nothing shows like that. We plan our destination for today at one of the free nature moorings at the Beulakker-Belterwiede lake, but when we arrive there the westfront show some disturbing clouds, with now an official warning for all (not just navigational) traffic. After some hesitation we decide to go for a more sheltered harbour place, which we find in the municipal harbour of Giethoorn (Passantenhaven De Zuiderkluft), a bit up north the Kanaal Beukers-Steenwijk. It's entrance is not easily to be found, but the harbour is much larger than we expected, and has comfortable quays.

Evening is still warm, but as the lightning starts at darkening night, we decide to put the tent up again. Lucky us, as we experience during the night.

Stick to your course

24 May 2009

When we wake up this morning, the Serious Pleasure of André Suntjens already has left the municipal quay of Workum, where we together with 3 Linssen's remaining from our Waddentour pack have spend the night. André still has a long way to go to Roermond in the far south, but we have plenty of time with still a week ahead for our return to home base in the center of the Netherlands.

Beluga, Serious Pleasure and Cómplice at Workum

At 10:00 AM we release our lines, taking the opportunity of the opening slot of the bridge ahead of us, on a beautiful sunny and cloudless Sunday. We aim for the Marrekrite opposite Joure, where we spend a night a few years ago as well. Already this early morning it is rather busy with waiting lines before the bridges that all need to open before exiting Workum. Because of the long weekend and the beautiful weather conditions, it looks like everyone with something floating has taken the opportunity to start the season (if not done before). Obviously, some also need to recap the basic navigational rules. Especially in the small canals with manoeuvring sailing ships, one really need to stick to course. Though a basic rule is that a motorboat is required to give way to a sailing ship, such is not the case when a motorboat stays starboard and stick to its course. But not all sailing boat captains seem to know, or do not wish to know, so one better be prepared.

Especially the Johan Friso kanaal (an important connection between the lakes) is a mess, eyes needed on all sides, even though situation has improved with a brand new aquaduct (the Jeltesleat Aquaduct). Past years there used to be a bridge there, with quite long waiting lines in the small canal. Bet you some shouting and collisions on this particular spot.

But as said, we take our time, no hurry. With a calm pace, enjoying every minute, we arrive at 12:00 in Joure. Unfortunately no comfortable place at this Marrekrite. We expect however that later this Sunday, some ships will leave, so we find a temp place awaiting our chance. Within a few hours, we have, and enjoy Sunsett on our aftdeck on this quiet place.

Marrekrite Joure

Splitting up

23 May 2009

Back to work again, pleasure needs to be taken seriously! We have planned for a rather early departure with our convoy today. But first, we of course first a suitable group picture needs to be taken. So we all collect on the front deck of Vivente and Adje Nooitgedagt, mobilise the harbour master in his dinghy for two cans of beer, and shots are taken.

Looking around, one could easily imagine that it will hours to set us free before being able to leave Terschelling harbour. Because of the long weekend and excellent weather, our Linssen group is fully packed around. But with an amazing organizational talent, moving around with his dinghy and blowing the whistle, the harbour master makes a path for us to leave.

One outside the piers of Terschelling-West harbour at around 08:30 AM - again taking advantage of the tidal current, I can't stop taking pictures. At the tail of the convoy, curving around the sand banks, all the time we have a different view on the cord of Linssen yachts. This return trip is a kind of countdown, like the story of the ten little children. Very soon GiGi, the DS45 of Dick Moerman leaves us. Dick will take the route between the islands of Terschelling and Vlieland, going around the north side of Terschelling, Ameland and Schiermonnikoog. It is amazing to see him walk the aisle board with remote control, no other crew aboard.

Arriving at Kornwerdersluis within 2 hours, and lucky (again), no waiting time, both locks in parallel on our side opened, half of our pack in one lock, and other half in the other one, and almost at the same time leaving the locks again. Now the countdown continues. First Adje Nooitgedacht heads west to Medemblik. A few miles further on we say goodbye to Amphitrite and Vivente. They are heading to Enkhuizen. And next is our turn. With three of us - together with Beluga and Serious Pleasure - we take the direction to Workum.

To our surprise, the waiting area before the lock is very crowded. We expect a long waiting time for this rather small lock. But the lockkeeper probably was very good in jig saw puzzling in his childhood, and still practices this when filling up the lock. He waves us to enter as the last at the third turn. The lock door only can close, with our bow on one side, and our stirn on the other side of the lock. No damages, but I do have some concerns!

When we are mooring at cosy place with Workum churchtower on the background, we see dozens, no more than 100 very antique cars pass by. They are having a Antique car tour this day, visiting all eleven Frisian cities that are famous for the "Elfstedentocht" (the well known skating tour).

Though we still have a week ahead for our way back home, the Linssen Owners Group "Waddentour" ends here.

Muscle power

22 May 2009

In addition to being a cyclist paradise and having a beautiful nature, Terschelling is well-known for two major events. One of them being the "Oeral festival", an annual event with dozens of modern artistic performances (mainly on the beaches), attracting thousands of visitors. The other one is the HT Race, which is taking place today. It is regarded to be the heaviest rowing boat races in the Netherlands, the "race of races", bridging the distance between Harlingen and Terschelling. Fighting a sheer 34 kilometers the tidal currents, wind and waves with a crew of 8 to 10. First race was organized in 1975, and ever since yearly. This year over 130 rowing boats participate, but not all succeed to arrive in time or even at all. It typically takes about 4 to 5 hours muscle power, but also clever strategy. Taking advantage of the tidal current of course, where-ever possible, and making short cuts over the sand banks as long as the tide permits. If you are too late, making not the progress you calculated, you're done, getting stuck on the sand.

As our group has a "day-off" for today, available for exploring the island on our own, most of us walk to the piers around the main harbour entrance to watch the show of the first arrivals at around 11:00 AM. They must have started very early this morning. It is a fantastic view to see them coming, accompanied by all sort of (sailing) ships, and the encouraging crowds on the piers. Of course we do as the islanders do, and have a raw herring with onions in the meantime.

For the remainder of the day we take it easy, walking the crowded small streets of West-Terschelling, taking a drink at one of the sunny terraces at the foot of the Brandaris - the characteric lighthouse which originally was the first lighthouse in the Netherlands (the original was build in 1323, which disappeared into sea in 1570. The current one originates from 1594, since 1907 electrically powered).

We end the day with our "captains dinner" with our Linssen Owners Group, to share our "seamans stories" , which become more heroic by the minute when day ends.

Cycling around

21 May 2009

Each of the Frisian islands are cyclist paradise. Actually, "Frisian" is a deceptive English label. Not all Dutch "Wadden eilanden" resort under province of Friesland. And there are German islands as well. But let it be. For all cycling is the name of the game. Bringing a car is expensive, and on some of the island even prohibited (except for the inhabitants), and everything is close by. The island Terschelling counts approx. 87 square kilometers of land, has less than 5000 inhabitants, and the second largest of the Dutch islands.

No wonder today we have a cycling program with our Linssen Owners Group. Preliminary bycicles reservations are made for all of us, for some of us with electronic support. In main town West-Terschelling, like on all the other islands, dozen of rental shops each with hundreds of bicycles for rent, probable advance reservation is not needed, unless you are with a large group.

Our start today at 10:00 AM brings us, straightaway and within 20 minutes, to the ... coffeepot. Typically Dutch, can't do without. In free nature, surrounded by the typical island woods, a coffee table is set up for us, loaded with coffee and all sorts of cranberry cakes. The cranberry is a typical berry for Terschelling. The story goes that in 1845 a barrel of cranberrys washed ashore, and because of the ideal climate florished in its new habitat. Currently they are commercially exploited.

We continue our way after this delicious treat, direction north east, to another stop with guided walking tour (and climb) to the highest dune of Terschelling, where one can oversee the full island in all directions, and the clear blue and sunny sky mirroring in the sea. Another 30 minutes of cycling, visiting the Wrakkenmuseum, where we have lunch. The museum shows all kinds of remainders and washed ashore belongings of ships that wrecked over a long period of time. By the way, around Terschelling - even at main port - one finds several towers of WW 1 German sub marines, sunk in that period of time (probably got lost between the sand banks), found by divers during the last decades, and hoisted ashore for exposure.

A bit morbide, visiting a shipwreck museum, with a group of ships owners! So let's have a bit of a laugh. We do so, at our next experience: playing beach golf at our next stop. A very strong wind blowing sand dunes, and causing unexpected changes of direction of the golf balls making such a funny experience.

Cycling back to our Linssen's in Jachthaven Terschelling, a last surprise for today. On a windsheltered place between the dunes we have a cranberry liqueur tasting party. In the meantime our tour guide for today, being a tug boat captain for his day-to-day living, tells some horror stories about unfortunate skippers to be rescued around the wonderful island.

Customs custom

20 May 2009
Second part

What a difference compared to the brusk short breaking waves at the IJsselmeer! When leaving the lock Kornwerdersluis, entering the Waddenzee, a relative quiet see enrolls, with a relaxing long swell. The sun creating an array of bright blue colours on the salt water, across the depth variances. Indeed, the Waddenzee with its sand banks, and strong tidal currents, can be very dangerous in poor weather conditions, one should not forget, but this time she is a 'sleeping beauty'! I put some extra power on the throttle - not just because I am tempted to do so because of the magnificient feeling of freedom, but (down to earth) Cómplice hardly can cope with the pace of the larger Linssens. It feels strong and stable, what can happen? A few seals are noticed at the front of the pack, taking the ships lane from the opposite site, marineradio's crack to ask everyone's attention.

Seals ahead!

We almost forget paying attention to the basic rules. Watch the other traffic on the 'road'. Actually we had seen it coming from a long distance. A very large, robust and fast Customs vessel at high speed. Right on the spot of our portside turn, opposite Harlingen, taking the direction to Terschelling, its tremendous waves hit us, more or less on the side. Too late to take the bow to waves. If one thinks everything is under control, and all belongings are safe and fixed, there are always forgettables. The binoculars, the mobile phone, the handheld marineradio, a coffeepot and even the navigation computer leave their place. This is where the trail on the map above stops... We have to come to grips again, stupid me. But Cómplice itself only shudders a bit, puts herself in the right position again, and continues her way. Bye bye customs. We pick our belongings together, I restart the navigation computer, and from now on pay attention to not only nature, but also to the large fishing boats, and the huge ferry that is approaching us.

GiGi rides the waves. One of the few build Linssens of this type

A cosy come together in West-Terschelling yachts harbour

On the map, from Harlingen to Terschelling seems such a short way. From a long distance one can see the light house, which is deceptive to estimate the time to go. The way to Terschelling is a curving experience, around the sand banks, but not a very difficult one. Very well marked buoys, and with additional help of GPS and map, one can't go wrong. Some make shortcuts, but I won't give it a try. As simple as that: the low tide is coming, and hitting the ground would mean for the next few hours the fix will get worse.

Arriving at Terschelling roadstead at 13:30, mooring places kept free for our Linssen pack close together, at the huge yachts harbour, which gets more crowded by the minute with this long Ascension day weekend and excellent weather forecast coming. Ready for our 'jetty drinks'. But first, quite a few of us, wash the salt away first.


Jetty drinks, at last

Roller coaster

20 May 2009

first part

A very early wake-up this morning. As our teamleader Sjouke Jan Dijkstra explained the night before, we should not leave later than 07:00 AM from Hindeloopen, in order to enter the Waddenzee just in time to optimize our advantage of the tidal current. Wind increased during the night to a Bft 5 or 6, also being the forecast for the day. No reason for concerns, we thought, but the Harfie crew hesitated because their young dog(s) on board, and decided on last minute not to join the pack. As soon as we left the shelter of the pier of Hindeloopen, we acknowledged this to be a wise decision.

We leave the harbour as the latest one of convoy, and with the St. Jozef vlet staying behind, as the smallest of the group. A kind of frightening view before us, seeing the stirn of most of the Linssen's moving minus 200 to minus 200 (or more) from port to starboard side. Except, of course, the GS 430 of Sjouke Jan and the GS 500 of Jos Kempers, because of their stabilisators, and the a-typical Linssen DS45 of Dick Moerman. At least we could predict what to expect in the next few moments.

Cómplice, still in sheltered waters with Hindeloopen churchtower

The IJsselmeer as such by itself already is rather "famous" for its nasty, short waves. But especially on the low wind site (with the SW wind blowing all the way from Amsterdam) and the shallow coast breaking the waves on our course, in addition to the waves coming in half (port) side, half stirn, such becomes even nastier.

Not a comfortable ride, but after first 15 minutes one gets sort of used to it, not the least because trust increases that even the smallest Linssen can stand the waves without a moment of doubt. But without stabilisators and/or an auto-pilot, it is hard work at the steering wheel to keep her on course.

When we arrive at sluis Kornwerderzand, entering the relative quiet shelter its piers guiding you to the lock, we feel like hero's. We've done it so far, but we would not have done it without the presence of so many companions.

Entering the lock at Kornwerderzand